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Custom Weaving

If you follow my Instagram you've probably noticed my favorite passion, weaving. As a graphic designer by trade I spend my days in back of a camera or in front of a computer. I love coming home after work and sitting down at my loom to let my mind wonder as I play with the warp. Weaving, to me, is the perfect marriage of bold colors, sharp shapes and soft textures. It is the medium that I have been searching for my entire life. I can't stop sketching new designs!

If you want me to create you a custom piece, complete with design sketches and color matching, visit my shop! I love weaving with people in mind and I will be sure to create a conversation-starter piece for you to hang in your home.
One of my favorite things about weaving is the journey. Each weave takes me up to 10 hours to complete and a few of those hours are spent undoing what I had originally designed. The journey of weaving always begins with an idea but halfway through I always have to admit that what I imagined doesn't look as good as what I produce if I let the yarn do the talking. Little by little my weave comes alive until I've reached a stopping point and realized that I had no idea how it would end up looking.

Painting with Masking Fluid

When I'm not glued to my loom or my computer, weaving or editing, I like to  grab my paintbrushes and pretend that I learned something from the dozens of art classes I've taken. I found some masking fluid (I had no idea what it was) in the paint aisle during my last trip to the art store and had to grab it. I haven't had a chance to really try it out because I have been weaving like crazy but it is a life-saver! Where has this been my whole life?
Have you ever wondered how some artists manage to leave the tiniest lines of negative space in their paintings? Have you ever tried to recreate the look naturally by brushing extremely slowly and carefully? The slightest bump can mess up hours of work... and the finished product has an unnatural appearance. Masking fluid is the miracle answer!

The first step is to lightly draw the basic outline of your picture with a pencil. Then grab your masking fluid and copy the outlines by squeezing the fluid directly over your lines. 
The fluid comes out of a needle-shaped cap at a steady rate. Although it comes out as liquid, it dries very quickly into a rubber quality.
Wait for a few minutes until all of the masking fluid has dried and then grab your brushes and paint just like usual - right over the top of the dried masking fluid. 
(Masking fluid is also great if you stink at staying in the lines and need an invisible border for your paint!)
This is where the magic happens. Once your paint has completely dried, grab a rubber eraser and gently rub over the top of your painting.
This is my favorite part! The masking fluid clumps together and comes up easily just like the temporary adhesive on the back of brand new credit cards. All that is left behind is your beautiful painting with perfectly thin, negative lines. Everyone will be amazed at your smooth hand, but we'll both know the secret...

Weaving with Wool

One day I may try spinning my own yarn for my weaves. I've researched the process and it is fascinating! Until then I have been focused on learning how to use the different stages of fibers in weaving. If you are curious about the three most common fiber stages, read on!


 Uncarded wool is the fiber you get after shearing an animal. It can be from sheep, alpaca, even your dog - as long as their hair is long enough! It is usually very matted and knotted. It has to be cleaned of dirt, bugs and plants before you can dye it or weave with it.
Although the pieces of uncarded wool that you can use for weaving aren't long enough for a traditional tabby weave you can use a ria technique to fill in a bushy section of your weave. When it is held in place just grab some scissors and 'shave' the section down for a dense, carpet-like appearance.


Roving is the next step in the fiber stage. The uncarded wool has been combed and batted into nice, long strips of wool right before being spun. Although roving can break easily by being pulled too hard, sections can be used in weaving for a bubble effect.
To include roving in your weave you must pull a long section (2x the length of your project) through your warp similar to a normal tabby weave. Then, starting in the middle grab sections through your warp strings and pull them out slightly so that they 'bubble'. Secure them in place and fluff them out!



The easiest and most common fiber stage that you can use in your weave is regular, spun yarn. This is the normal type of yarn that fiber artists use for crocheting and knitting. It is created from lengths of roving that have been tightened and spun into a strong rope-like shape.
There are many, many techniques that you can use to weave spun yarn into your tapestry. The most common is the tabby weave which goes 'over, under, over, under' your warp strings. 

I don't think I could pick my favorite fiber stage to use. By using all three types of fiber together your weave will have an extra level of texture and interest!


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