Welcome to Weaving: Learn How to Weave Online Class

I am so excited to finally announce the launch of my complete video course, Welcome to Weaving: Tips and Tricks to Weaving on a Frame Loom from Start to Finish!


When I began weaving there was no one to teach me. I cringe thinking of the first wall hangings that I created, which either fell apart or were so messy that they wouldn't hang straight! Most of my techniques were self-taught with trial and error until eventually I felt comfortable with my methods.
I always wished that there was a video course for this beautiful craft that I could have followed when I first began my weaving journey. I didn't know my 'warp' from my 'weft' and I thought 'heddle' was a type of Swedish snow sled.
So... after years of questions from my followers I have put together a complete online video course! It includes a 40 page introduction booklet as well as 13 private video lessons where you can weave along with me to finish your first 'sampler weave'. It's up close and personal, and is sure to teach you something new!

I'm so excited! This project has been under wraps for quite a while. Yes, I hate listening to myself - but I know that it will answer many of the questions that I am asked, over and over, from beginner weavers.
Even if you can't make it to a workshop with a weaving master or don't have any fellow weavers in your local area you can still learn all of the skills you need to know. Welcome to Weaving!

Purchase the course HERE and start immediately.

In this course I answer the following questions, among others.


Why should I weave upside down?
How do I make shapes, like curves?
How do I attach the tapestry to a bar?
What is the best type of yarn to use for my warp... what about my weft?
Where can I purchase warp string and needles?
How do I keep the sides of my weave straight instead of curving in?
How do I finish a weave so that it doesn't fall apart after cutting it off the loom?
What is the secret method to keeping a clean back for minimal finishing work?
What are the basic stitches I need to know?
How do I set up my loom with a high density warp?


Weaving How To: Warping Low vs. High Density

I think that it is essential for a loom to be versatile enough that you can execute any design you imagine. That is why my husband and I designed and built my looms so that you can adjust the length and tension of the warp, as well as making it wide enough to accomodate small projects along with big ideas. But, another nifty trick is changing the density of your warp strings. 


All gone? Message me!

Why do you need to care about this? Options are always better! 
A low density warp is perfect for beginners and quick projects with large yarn. Imagine you are working on a soumac weave with large caterpillars of roving crawling across. Having a low density warp is perfect to keep your knots wide and fluffy. 
A high density warp is my personal favorite because it allows you to create more shapes, namely curves. The more options you have for your weft to stair-step up, the smoother the sides of your shapes appear. High density warp is essential for creating details and although it takes more time, it will result in a tighter weave.

 Let me show you how to easily create both types of warp. First, there are two ways to tie on warp. You can either double knot it quickly around one notch or more securely around the whole frame. Either way works fine!

First, low density warp is achieved by looping your warp around every other notch. That means that even though each slit will have a warp string either exiting or entering, only every other notch will have a loop from your warp wrapped around it.

Now, high density warp is achieved by looping your warp around every notch. That means that though each slit will have two warp strings, one entering and one exiting, and every other notch will have a loop from your warp wrapped around it.

It's that easy! Want to get really adventurous? Try a weave with both types of warp in it... I'm not sure how it would work, tension-wise, but it would be fun to experiment!


How To: Low Immersion Hand Dying

I love weaving with yarn that has a handmade touch. Whether it's spun or dyed, it makes my weaves stand out! reached out to ask if I would be interested in trying out their reactive dye kit and I was quick to jump on it. They include everything you need to try out different dying methods, but the best part is their easy to understand handbook. It explains everything so clearly. The easiest way to dye fibers like cotton and silk so that the color lasts is to use fiber reactive dye. Let me show you how much fun I had!
The first step is to soak the fiber in warm water with detergent. Fiberhuis even includes a great detergent in their kit. This cleans the yarn thoroughly so that the color can stick. Even though it may look clean, the water was a nasty yellow by the end. It made me want to wash all of my yarn!

I chose to try the low immersion method (this creates a variegated, speckled effect.) After the yarn was cleaned and rinsed I scrunched it up and stuffed it into a container so that there were no empty spaces between pieces. I poured 3 cups in the container with the fiber, just so that it filled up to where the yarn ended. There should be some pieces of yarn actually sticking out of the water. I mixed up the dye and poured it in stripes across the top of the yarn and let it sit. If you want, you could pour some other colors in the spaces that didn't get dyed for a rainbow effect.
My yarn was scrunched pretty tight so I had to use a paintbrush to poke some of the dye below the top layer. The longer you let the dye sit, the darker it gets. If you want to add another layer of depth mix up some soda ash in water and pour that in a few spots over the dye. This is supposed to darken the color.
I didn't take any photos of rinsing the yarn and hanging it to dry, but Fiberhuis made it so easy to experiment with hand dying. I got a pretty pale indigo color that I can't wait to weave with, and it happened in about an afternoon. If I had added more dye or let it sit longer the color would have darkened, but I ended up loving the hue and the variegation in color. Fiberhuis includes instructions for many more dying techniques - I can't wait to try them all! Thanks Brittany, for a pretty cool kit. Now I'm on the search for more things to dye, pronto!